Commercial Vegetable Production

Amaranth (Amaranthus spp.)
Amaranthaceae Family

• Also called Chinese spinach, Indian spinach
• Annual herbs; some are grown for their foliage; others are grown for their seeds.
• Growing conditions: Soil with high organic matter content and a sunny position preferred. Will tolerate pH from 5.5 to 7.5.
• Nutrient requirements:  Side dressing of nitrogen will promote active growth. Additional potassium may be needed for some soils.
• Use:  Amaranth was traditionally used by Aztecs both for food and as a ritual item. Some species are grown for their foliage, which is used as a green vegetable. Other species are grown for seed, which are used to produce drinks, sweets, flour and gruel.

Artichoke (Chinese) (Stachys tuberifera)
Lamiaceae Family

• Chinese artichokes are rarely seen these days, and for this reason both tubers and seed are difficult to obtain. Tubers have a corkscrew shape and have a pleasant watery flavour.
• Growing Conditions:  Chinese artichokes prefer full or filtered sunlight, otherwise they tolerate a wide variety of conditions.
• Culture: They grow well in poor soils, and do not generally need feeding. In particular avoid nitrogenous fertilisers. Excess fertilisers will result in excessive foliage and poor tubers. Heavy or compacted soils should be well cultivated to improve tuber/root penetration. The tubers can be stored in the ground over winter or in a dark room. 3-4 plants are required to supply an average family.
• Companion Plants:  Avoid planting with legumes, as the nitrogen fixed into the soil by the legumes could result in excess foliage growth.
• Propagation:  Tubers planted in winter. Seed sown in spring.
• Pest and Disease Problems:  Usually few pest and disease problems.

Use:
The tubers of Chinese Artichokes are eaten boiled. They should not be harvested until the plant has died back. Do not expose the tubers to sunlight as they will rapidly deteriorate.

Artichoke (Globe) (Cynara scolymus)
Asteraceae Family

• A herbaceous perennial reaching a height of 1-1.6m tall, with large coarse serrated or lobed leaves to 1m long, and large grey-green flower heads that turn violet-purplish in colour as they ripen.
• Growing Conditions:  An open or protected position, in full or filtered sun is preferred. They will withstand some frost.
• Culture:Globe artichokes are tolerant of most soil types, but prefer sandy loams with some moisture and plenty of organic matter. Water stress can cause edible buds to drop. The soil should be prepared by planting a legume cover crop (eg. lupins or beans), or by digging in organic matter and lots of manure 1-4 weeks before planting (the fresher the manure - the longer the wait before planting). Plant in raised beds, or into mounds, to improve drainage. In humid areas, or very wet climates, space plants well apart, and prune if necessary, to allow plenty of ventilation to help control fungal diseases.
• Mulch heavily to control weeds. Apply nitrogen fertilisers periodically. In frost prone areas, winter protection may be necessary. Plants take 18 months to mature and will last for around five years.
• Companion Plants:  Nasturtiums can be planted nearby to attract aphids away from the crop. Intercrop with peas or beans to improve soil nitrogen.
• Propagation:  Usually propagated by planting suckers (offsets) from established plants about 60cm apart in rows, with about 1 - 1.2 metres between rows, in spring. Seedlings can also be planted deeply into the soil, the plants well mulched, and then any suckers that appear are removed and planted out or discarded. Seedlings and newly planted suckers may need some frost protection until established.
• Pest and Disease Problems:  Pests include aphids, nematodes, caterpillars, leafminers and rodents.
• Diseases include fusarium, botrytis and virus.
• Spray heavy infestations of aphis or caterpillars with natural garlic or pyrethrum, daily until controlled.
• Virus-infected plants (ie. showing distorted, discoloured, abnormal foliage) should be immediately removed and burnt.
• Use:  The bottom part of the plant, the flowers, and side buds can be eaten raw, or boiled or fried. Harvest from spring to summer. Side buds and flower heads should be picked before they begin to open, taking a small section of stem as well. At least 3-4 plants are required to supply an average family.
• As well as being delicious this plant is well suited to use in the ornamental garden.

Artichoke (Jerusalem) (Helianthus tuberosus)
Asteraceae Family

• A herbaceous sunflower-like plant from 1.8 - 4 metres tall, with grey foliage, and large potato-like tubers that have a sweet nut-like taste. Their flowers are large and colourful.
• Growing Conditions:  Jerusalem artichokes prefer a sunny position, with day temperatures of between 19-27°C, and do not like excessive heat. They are very frost hardy.
• Culture:  Most soils are suitable, but they should be heavily manured and fertilised before planting. Extra applications of sugar waste or bone dust may be valuable as phosphorus is very important.  Adjust pH to around 6.5 by adding lime to offset the affect of any manure or organic matter.  Soil should be mounded around plants as they develop. The growth of Jerusalem Artichokes should be controlled as they can spread rapidly. Shading may be necessary in hot climates.
• Companion Plants:Wormwood may deter slugs and snails.
• Propagation:  Plant tubers in winter or spring, at 30 cm spacings and 60 – 100 cm between rows, when weather is reaching daily maximums between 15°C and 18°C. The tubers can be planted as for potatoes, with cleanly cut sections of tuber each containing one or more shoots (eyes).
• Pest and Disease Problems: Jerusalem artichoke is a very hardy plant, with usually few pests except for occasional slugs and snails.
• Use: The tubers are a nutritious (vitamin rich), low calorie, starch free, substitute for potatoes. They can be left in the ground, and lifted as required. They will not store well once lifted. Don't eat sprouting tubers. Harvest 4 weeks after flower buds start. About 10 plants are required to supply an average family. Some people claim that this vegetable causes flatulence.

Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis)
Liliaceae Family

• A deep-rooted herbaceous perennial to around 2 m tall, with fine feathery foliage that is grown for the very tasty new shoots (or spears) that emerge from a crown rhizome beneath the soil in early spring. The foliage may turn attractive shades in autumn before dying back.
• Growing Conditions:Asparagus prefers full sun, and grows best in temperate areas. Is has been known to grow successfully in the subtropics in Australia.
• Culture:  A well drained, but moist, very fertile soil is necessary for good crops. If drainage is poor, plant in raised beds. Prepare the soil by digging a trench 30-35 cm deep, spreading rotted manure to 15 cm deep in the bottom, then covering the manure with a thin layer of soil. This will leave an open trench about 15 cm deep and 25 cm across, which crowns can be planted into. Cover the crowns with about 7 cm of soil and continue to backfill the trench as spears grow. Once established, the same plants continue to produce for many years.  Weed control and regular feeding is important to keep the plants healthy and producing.  After the harvest is finished each year, it is valuable to grow a cover crop of legumes (eg. soybeans). In areas with cool winters the crowns can be mulched to provide some protection against cool temperatures. The foliage should be left to act as additional mulch. In early spring each year ridging should be carried out (ie. soil is dug from between the rows of asparagus and thrown up on top of where the plants are growing). This provides a drainage channel in between the rows and increases the depth of soil above the plant. (NB: The spears become stronger and thicker by emerging through a greater depth of soil.) This also helps to keep the crowns covered as they tend to grow upwards in the soil.
• Companion Plants:  Comfrey may lure snails away from asparagus. Wormwood may also deter slugs and snails, but if too close it may compete for both nutrients and light. Some growers suggest that parsley makes asparagus grow faster, perhaps by penetrating the soil and allowing the asparagus in turn to grow deeper.
• Propagation:  Sow seed late winter, plant crowns mid to late winter in temperate areas.
• Crowns can be planted about 45 – 50 cm apart in rows, with at least 1.2 m between rows. Plants grown from seed may take in excess of two years to produce a crop.
• Pest and Disease Problems:  Snails and cutworms are common problems. Sprays of Bacillus thuringiensis (eg. Dipel) will help control cutworms. Poultry (eg. chickens, guinea fowl and ducks) released into an asparagus patch occasionally will clean up pests.
• Use:  Do not harvest any spears from the first season of seedlings. If growing two-year-old crowns, or if seedlings are two years of age, only harvest 30-50% of the spears at most. In the third year you may harvest up to 80%. Cut below soil level to a depth of around 15cm to harvest. Asparagus are high yielding plants and may need to be harvested daily during peak growth. Spears can be frozen, eaten raw, and cooked in a variety of ways. Fresh asparagus steamed or boiled and served with butter, pepper and salt can be a delicious meal. Alternatively, elaborate French-style soups and other dishes can be made with asparagus. 5 -10 plants will supply the average family.

Broad Beans (Vicia faba)
Fabaceae Family

• Broad beans are a leafy, annual, legume plant reaching 1- 2 m tall.
• Growing Conditions:They need a cool position to do well. In cool to temperate areas, plant in the open. In the subtropics they should only be planted in the cool season, and some protection may be needed, with better results generally coming on an aspect facing away from the sun. Broad Beans withstand frost, but they are not suited to the tropics.
• Culture:Most soils are okay provided they are not too acid. Fertile soils, in a cool, but sunny position will give maximum yields. Destroy all weed growth and weed seed before planting. Use solarisation if weed seeds are a problem. Prepare soil with well rotted manure, but keep the soil pH between 6 and 7. On very acid soils, some lime may be needed, but be careful; a pH over 7 leads to nutrient deficiencies.  Control weeds, preferably with mulching (cultivate if necessary, but only scrape the surface as roots are easily damaged by cultivation). Never cultivate after pods start to form.  Rotate crops regularly. Beans are a legume and so will produce much of their own nitrogen requirements. Avoid over-fertilising with nitrogenous fertilisers. Light applications of phosphate fertilisers generally give good results. Some sort of support, such as twine or wires stretched between posts may be necessary to prevent plants falling over or being damaged by winds.
• Companion Plants:  Broad beans grow well alongside carrots, cauliflower, silver beet and red beet.  Marigolds, nasturtiums, chives, borage, larkspur, lovage, mustard, marjoram, rosemary, sage, anise, basil and savory make suitable companion plants. Some growers say beans should not be planted with Artemisia (eg. wormwood, southernwood, mugwort etc), beet, onions, garlic, chives, leeks or fennel.
• Propagation:  Sow seed in mid-autumn in temperate areas to winter in warmer localities. Seed should be planted about 5cm deep, about 15 – 25 cm apart in rows, with about 60 – 75 cm between rows.
• Pest and Disease Problems:  Aphids, bean fly, pod borer, mites, thrips, Heliothis corn earworm, vegetable bugs, loopers. Diseases include: botrytis, rust, rots, leaf spot and blight.  Hygiene is important. Graze poultry over the ground before planting to remove existing pests. Keep area well drained and ventilated to minimise fungal problems. Use natural pesticides such as pyrethrum, daily for major infestations of insects until control is affected. Seriously infected plants should be removed and burnt.
• Use:  Broad beans should be picked young to ensure the best flavour and texture. Freeze or eat fresh. They can be sliced and eaten raw in salads, fried with garlic, or used in stir fries. Some people eat the entire pod. Others prefer to eat the beans only. A 3-5 metre row will supply the average family.

Diana Cole B.A. (Hons), Higher Dip. (Garden Design), RHS Advanced Cert. Horticulture, Cert Admin.Mgt., Dip. Inst. Personnel Management   In addition to her RHS horticulture, garden design, City & Guild construction, NPTC pesticide/legislation and business/management qualifications, Diana has a variety of skills drawn from setting up Arbella Gardens, a landscape gardening business. She also has administrative, management and training delivery experience drawn from her employment in other organisations such as the NHS and other educational institutions such as schools & universities. She has augmented her training expertise having gained the Preparing to Teach in the Life Long Learning Sector qualification. She also has experience gained through working as a volunteer in a number of different roles including amenity style gardening in parks and practical conservation work. Diana is also a member of the National Society of Allotment and Leisure Gardeners Limited (NSALG).

Maggi Brown Cert.Ed.(Environment)
Maggi is regarded as an expert in Organic Growing throughout the UK, having worked for two decades as Education Officer at the world renowned Henry Doubleday Research Association (now Garden Organic). She has been active in education, environmental management and horticulture across the UK for more them three decades.

Yvonne Sharpe RHS Cert.Hort, Dip.Hort, M.Hort, Cert.Ed., Dip.Mgt.
Over 30 years of experience in horticulture, education and management, Yvonne hastravelled widely within and beyond Europe, and has worked in many areas of horticulture from garden centres to horticultural therapy. She has served on industry committees and been actively involved with amateur garden clubs for decades. Yvonne is also a member of the National Society of Allotment and Leisure Gardeners (NSALG).

John L. Mason Dip.Hort.Sc., Sup'n Cert., FIOH, FPLA, FAIH, MACHPER, MASA
Mr Mason has had over 40 years experience in the fields of Horticulture, Business, Education and Journalism. He has extensive experience both as a public servant, and as a small business owner. He has held positions ranging from Nurseryman and Landscape Designer to Director of Parks and Recreation (City of Essendon) and magazine editor.
John is a well respected member of many professional associations, and author of over forty books and of over two thousand magazine articles. Even today, John has written a number of best selling reference texts used by horticultural courses at universities and colleges internationally. His publishers include Simon and Shuster, and Landlinks Press (CSIRO Publishing

Dr. Lynette Morgan B. Hort. Tech., Ph.D. in Horticultural Science   Dr Morgan has a broad expertise in horticulture and crop production, and a keen appreciation of the global scene. She travels widely as a partner in Suntec Horticultural Consultants, and has clients in central America, the USA, Caribbean, South East Asia, the Middle East, Australia and New Zealand.

Gavin Cole B.Sc., Psych.Cert., Cert.Garden Design, MACA
Gavin has over 20 years of industry experience in Psychology, Landscaping, Publishing and Education. He was operations manager for a highly reputable British Landscape firm (The Chelsea Gardener) before starting up his own firm. He spent the best part of three years working in our Gold Coast office, partly as a writer for Your Backyard (gardening magazine), and partly as a tutor in both psychology and horticulture.

Martin Powdrill, Bsc (Hons) Applied Science (Resources Option), MSc Computer Studies, Permaculture Design Certificate. Martin’s goal as a catalyst for sustainable change brings together his strengths and experience in his environmental, project management, and business backgrounds. For 25 years, Martin has been involved in Telecommunications, IT, Organisational Development, and Energy Conservation & Efficiency, prior to setting up his own Permaculture consulting business. He wishes to make a real difference to people and the planet, by actively bringing new perspectives to current challenges and exciting opportunities. To realise this, he enables diverse groups of people to flourish and release their untapped potential, by re-igniting their passion and creativity. Additionally, Martin volunteers with many local environmental and community groups, and facilitates discussions on climate change, peak oil, and transition towns. Martin has an allotment, and is currently enrolled in the Scottish Mountain Bike Leader Award programme.

Rosemary Davies Dip Hort Sc.   Originally from Melbourne, Rosemary trained in Horticultural Applied Science at Burnley, a campus of Melbourne University. Initially she worked with Agriculture Victoria as an extension officer, taught horticulture students, worked on radio with ABC radio (clocking up over 24 years as a presenter of garden talkback programs, initially the only woman presenter on gardening in Victoria) and she simultaneously developed a career as a writer.

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